Lüdagun, which translates to "rolling donkey," is one of Beijing's most beloved traditional snacks. Its name comes from an amusing legend: during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), an imperial chef was making a sweet rice dessert but accidentally dropped it into soybean flour. The chef's servant, seeing the snack covered in brown powder, joked that it looked like a donkey rolling in the dirt—and the name stuck.
There is another version of the story involving Empress Dowager Cixi, who was said to have enjoyed the snack and found the name so amusing that she kept it. Regardless of its exact origins, Lüdagun has been a favorite among Beijing locals for centuries. It is especially popular during spring and autumn, when the weather is mild, and is often found at traditional snack shops, street markets, and temple fairs throughout the city.
The snack is made from glutinous rice flour, red bean paste, and soybean flour—simple ingredients that come together to create something truly delightful. Today, Lüdagun remains a symbol of Beijing's sweet snack culture, enjoyed by both locals and tourists who appreciate its soft texture and gentle sweetness.
Preparation Steps
Lüdagun is relatively simple to make, requiring just a few basic ingredients and steps. Here is the traditional method:
Preparing the Glutinous Rice Dough: Glutinous rice flour is mixed with water to form a smooth, thick batter. The batter is poured into a shallow dish and steamed until it becomes a soft, sticky dough. The steaming process usually takes about 20 to 30 minutes.
Preparing the Bean Paste Filling: Red beans are cooked until soft, then mashed with sugar to create a smooth, sweet red bean paste. The paste is set aside to cool.
Preparing the Soybean Flour Coating: Dried soybeans are roasted until golden and fragrant, then ground into a fine powder. This powder serves as the outer coating, giving the snack its distinctive appearance and nutty flavor.
Assembling the Rolls: The steamed glutinous rice dough is placed on a flat surface dusted with soybean flour to prevent sticking. It is rolled out into a thin, rectangular sheet. The red bean paste is spread evenly over the dough, leaving a small border around the edges.
Rolling and Cutting: The dough is carefully rolled up from one end to the other, creating a long log. The log is then cut into bite-sized pieces, about 2 to 3 centimeters thick. Each piece is coated in additional soybean flour to ensure it is fully covered.
Serving: Lüdagun is served at room temperature, making it a perfect snack for any time of day. It is best eaten fresh, as the texture becomes firmer when refrigerated.
Review and Appreciation
Lüdagun is a snack that wins hearts with its simplicity. The first bite reveals a wonderfully soft, chewy texture from the glutinous rice dough, followed by the smooth, sweet red bean paste that melts in the mouth. The soybean flour coating adds a subtle nuttiness and a slight earthiness, balancing the sweetness perfectly.
The three layers create a beautiful harmony—the softness of the dough, the creamy sweetness of the bean paste, and the powdery, nutty coating all come together in each bite. The sweetness is never overpowering, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer lighter desserts.
While Lüdagun does not have the complex flavors of some modern pastries, its charm lies in its honesty and tradition. For visitors to Beijing, it offers a gentle introduction to the city's sweet street food culture. It is often compared to Japanese mochi or Korean rice cakes, but with a distinctly Chinese character.
Some critics find the snack too plain or dry, especially if the soybean powder is too thick. Others note that it is best enjoyed alongside tea, which helps bring out its subtle flavors. Despite these small criticisms, Lüdagun remains a beloved classic—a sweet reminder of old Beijing's simpler times.