Douzhi (fermented mung bean milk) and Jiaoquan (deep-fried crispy rings) form one of Beijing's most iconic and polarizing traditional breakfast combinations. The history of Douzhi can be traced back over a thousand years to the Liao Dynasty (907–1125), when it was first consumed among northern Chinese communities as a nutritious and affordable beverage. However, it was during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912) that Douzhi truly became a staple of Beijing's culinary landscape, particularly among the working class and residents of the city's hutong neighborhoods.
Douzhi is made from mung beans, a staple crop in northern China. The name "Douzhi" translates to "bean juice" or "bean liquid," but it is far from a simple drink. The production process involves soaking, grinding, and fermenting mung beans, resulting in a distinctive sour, slightly tangy liquid that is then cooked and served hot. While its strong, acquired taste has made it a polarizing dish, Douzhi has remained a beloved comfort food for generations of Beijing locals.
Jiaoquan, the crispy fried ring, is the perfect companion to Douzhi. The name "Jiaoquan" means "fried ring" or "toroidal crisp," and these golden, ring-shaped pastries are made from wheat flour dough that is shaped into rings and deep-fried until crispy and airy. Jiaoquan has a history nearly as long as Douzhi's, with records suggesting that similar fried pastries were enjoyed during the Tang Dynasty (618–907). Together, Douzhi and Jiaoquan became the ultimate working-class breakfast in old Beijing—filling, affordable, and deeply connected to the city's bustling morning street life.
For centuries, this combination has been associated with the city's southern districts, where street vendors would set up stalls at dawn, serving steaming bowls of Douzhi alongside freshly fried Jiaoquan. Even today, traditional breakfast houses like Laozihao (老字号) and iconic establishments such as Hudi (护国寺小吃) continue to serve this historic pairing, preserving a taste of old Beijing for new generations.
Preparation Steps
The preparation of Douzhi and Jiaoquan is a labor-intensive process that requires skill, patience, and careful attention to detail.
Part 1: Preparing Douzhi (Fermented Mung Bean Milk)
Soaking the Mung Beans: High-quality mung beans are washed and soaked in water for several hours, typically overnight, until they become soft and swollen.
Grinding: The soaked beans are ground with water into a fine, thick slurry using traditional stone mills or modern grinders. This step releases the starches and proteins from the beans.
Straining: The slurry is filtered through a fine cloth to separate the liquid (the raw Douzhi) from the solid bean residue. The liquid is collected in large containers.
Fermentation: The raw Douzhi is left to ferment for several days, depending on the temperature and humidity. During fermentation, natural bacteria convert the starches into lactic acid, giving the drink its characteristic sour and slightly tangy flavor. This step is crucial—the longer the fermentation, the more pronounced the sourness. Once the desired acidity is achieved, the liquid is ready.
Cooking: The fermented Douzhi is poured into a large pot and brought to a boil over medium heat, then simmered gently until it thickens slightly. Some vendors add a small amount of sugar or salt to balance the flavor, but traditional recipes keep it simple. The cooked Douzhi is ladled into bowls and served steaming hot, often accompanied by small side dishes such as pickled mustard greens or chili oil.
Part 2: Preparing Jiaoquan (Fried Crispy Rings)
Making the Dough: Wheat flour, water, yeast, and a small amount of salt are combined to form a soft, elastic dough. The dough is kneaded thoroughly and left to rise for a period of time.
Shaping: The risen dough is rolled out into a thin sheet and cut into long strips. These strips are then formed into rings by pressing the ends together. Traditionally, the rings are made with a slightly larger inner hole to create the characteristic toroidal shape.
Deep-Frying: A large wok or deep fryer is filled with cooking oil (typically vegetable oil) and heated to high temperature. The dough rings are carefully dropped into the hot oil and deep-fried until they turn a deep golden brown and puff up, becoming crispy and airy. The frying process takes only a few minutes, and the rings must be constantly turned to ensure even cooking.
Draining and Serving: The fried Jiaoquan are removed from the oil and drained on paper towels to remove excess oil. They are served immediately alongside a bowl of hot Douzhi, often accompanied by pickled vegetables or salted duck eggs for a complete meal.
Review and Appreciation
Douzhi and Jiaoquan represent a breakfast experience that is uniquely Beijing. For those who grew up with it, the combination is nothing short of nostalgic perfection. The first sip of Douzhi is unmistakable—a sour, slightly earthy, and subtly sweet liquid that warms the body from the inside out. The pungent, acquired taste is often described as an acquired love, one that rewards patience with a deep, comforting satisfaction. The Jiaoquan, on the other hand, provides the perfect textural contrast—light, crispy, and savory, with a satisfying crunch that melts in the mouth.
The pairing is a masterstroke of culinary balance. The sourness of the Douzhi is cut by the richness of the fried dough, while the saltiness of the pickled vegetables and salted duck eggs completes the flavor profile, creating a harmonious breakfast experience. It is a meal that is both humble and deeply satisfying, embodying the simplicity and resourcefulness of traditional Beijing cooking.
Food critics and cultural commentators often describe Douzhi and Jiaoquan as a true taste of old Beijing—a dish that has survived centuries of change and remains a symbol of the city's enduring spirit. Some have called it the "ultimate test of a true Beijinger," as embracing the sour flavor of Douzhi is often considered a rite of passage for those seeking to understand the city's culinary identity.
However, Douzhi is undeniably a polarizing dish. Many international tourists—and even some younger Chinese from other regions—find the sour, fermented flavor off-putting, describing it as "pungent," "unfamiliar," or even "unpalatable." The texture, which can be somewhat thin and gritty, also takes getting used to. Jiaoquan, while more universally appreciated for its crispy texture, can sometimes be oily or heavy for those unaccustomed to deep-fried breakfasts. Additionally, the dish is best consumed fresh and hot; when left to cool, Douzhi can become too sour, and Jiaoquan loses its crispiness.
Despite these challenges, Douzhi and Jiaoquan remain an enduring symbol of Beijing's street food heritage. For adventurous eaters seeking an authentic, unfiltered taste of the city's past, it offers a unique and memorable experience—one that invites diners to step back in time and connect with the everyday lives of Beijing's working-class ancestors. Whether you love it or find it challenging, there is no denying that Douzhi and Jiaoquan tell a story of tradition, resilience, and the unpretentious beauty of simple, time-honored food.